Super-skinny fashion laws a step in the right direction, but not enough

By CHRISTIANE BARRO

New laws to stop the use of super-skinny models on fashion runways probably won't stop the spread of anorexia in the industry, local experts say.

Fashion capital France last month joined the ranks of countries with legislation against models deemed an unhealthy weight, in an attempt to reduce the number of super-skinny models in the spotlight. It is now illegal for French media to publicise models with a Body Mass Index (BMI) below 18, which places them in the underweight range.

In Australia, the super-skinny focus was on Cassi van den Dungen who looked alarmingly skinny when she took to the catwalk for designer Alex Perry. He later apologised and said it was a "serious lapse of judgment".

But experts, including Mad for Health coach and consultant Jan McLeod, are questioning whether laws like this will help prevent excessive thinness and eating disorders, particularly in the modelling industry.

“I think regulation is dealing with the symptoms … however if you want to really solve the problem (of anorexia), you need to deal with the cause, [which is] the … prevailing belief that thin equates to beauty and healthy,” she said. Role modelling plays a vital role in our understanding of what it is to be healthy, according to Ms McLeod.

Australian model for Tanya Powell Model Agency Jessica Foster was optimistic about the effects the ban will have. It will allow “the media [to] portray a new image of beautiful that more girls can fit into,” Ms Foster said. Psychologist Nicole Scott agrees that the bodies of excessively thin models may not be an achievable aspiration for most members of the general public.

“[They] can create an unrealistic goal or expectation for women and men to aspire to,” Ms Scott said. “This kind of advertising can have a damaging impact on their perception of the world, themselves and those around them and can lead to problematic behaviors, attitudes, expectations and views.”

According to Eating Disorder Foundation, A People magazine survey found 80 per cent of women who responded felt insecure when shown images of women on TV and in the movies. “Girls that weight aren’t healthy at all,” Ms Foster said. She hopes this ban will gradually reduce the idealistic goal of thinness upheld by many young women.

But any change will be a long-term process. “This is not going to magically reduce the rates of anorexia overnight,” Ms Scott said.

“However, over time, such a law may contribute to a change in the views of young women. “There are many factors which can play a role in the development of an eating disorder such as anorexia, and the pressure and expectations coming from the media is just one factor.” While these laws are a step in the right direction, Ms Scott believes true change will only come about through education and social change.

“In order to reduce the rates of anorexia, the perceptions and attitudes of women and society as a whole would need to change,” she said. “A big part of creating this change relates to education.”

If people and governments are serious about reform education about body image and living a healthy life should be provided to people of all ages. “It is important to provide age appropriate education about healthy approaches to body image,” Ms Scott said.

“It is vital to provide this education to all members off the community, but particularly children, young people, and parents.”

With the French ban in place, a wider variety of body sizes and types should  be evident in the media, which will promote a greater perception on what constitutes beauty. It will not be narrowly restricted to the "super-skinny" look many young women and aspiring models idolise.

“Models seek work based on what look is on trend and hence being sought after. If super skinny is not a trend and not being hired, the pressure to be super thin to fit the look should diminish for models,” said Ms McLeod.

But Ms McLeod was worried the new laws still ignored the physical health of models. A BMI is calculated on an individual’s height and weight, with a BMI of between 18.5 and 25 considered a healthy range. Anyone with a BMI below or above that range is considered underweight, overweight or obese. But BMI does not consider body fat percentage, which is considered a more accurate representation of obesity.

“Attaining a weight to height ratio that gives you a BMI that sits in the acceptable range does not equate to being healthy nor does it assess whether they eat a healthy diet,” Ms McLeod said. “Easing the pressure on models to be super thin does not equate to sending them a signal to adopt a healthy diet or be healthier. “It will only be effective when used as part of a wider program with a broader set of strategies.”

HOW OUR TOP MODELS MEASURE UP Top Australian and international model Miranda Kerr is 175cm and her weight is generally reported at 52-54kg. Even at 54kg, her BMI would be 17.6 – underweight. Elle Macpherson, known as "The Body", is 182cm and generally reported to be about 58kg. In one interview, she said her "skinny" weight was 58kg and that she ranged up to 61kg.  At 58kg, she would have a BMI of 17.5 and be underweight. Jessica Hart is 177cm and her weight is reported to be 55kg, giving her a BMI of 17.6. Plus-size model Robyn Lawley is 188cm tall and is reported to have a weight of 74kg. This would translate to a BMI of 20.9, placing her in a healthy weight range.